Climbs left to right
1. Black Magic P1 5.10- P2 5.11b P3 5.12c
2. Inner Sanctum 5.11d 35m
3. Moonlight Drive 5.11b 35m
4. Friend of Misery 5.11d 30m
5. Behind the Curtain 5.12b 35m
6. School of Witchcraft 5.11d 35m
7. Pixy Mayhem 5.12a 35m
8. Mystic Fortune 5.11b/c 30m
9. Pick Your Poison 5.12c 30m
10. Luck of the Draw 5.11b/c 35m
11. Intellectual Luminary 5.13a 30m
12. Cosmic Conquer 5.12c 35m
13. Instrument of Darkness 5.13a/b 35m
14. Mortal Knowledge 5.13 c/d 40m
15. Accidental Magic 5.12a/b 35m
16. Onsight Oracle P1 5.12a/b 35m P2 5.13a 20m
17. Sole Splitter P1 5.13a 30m P2 5.11d 30m
18. Serious Black P1 5.12b/c 30m and P2 5.12b 30m
19. Renegade Sorcerer – closed project.
20. Vow of Silence 5.13a/b 30m
21. Savage Chi 5.12d 35m
22. Hound of Hades 5.12b 35m (40m extension)
23. Spell Bound P1 5.12a 35m (40m extension)
24. Once Upon a Time 5.12a 35m (40m extension)
25. Hocus Pocus 5.11b 30m
26. Arc of Totality 5.10b 30m 12 bolts 25m
27. TR Line
28. Abbey Cadabra 5.10a 25m 11bolts 25m
29. Dark Arts 5.10b 20m
What to expect:
1. Black Magic** Pitch 1: 5.10 30m Pitch 2: 5.11 20m, Pitch 3: 5.12c 10m
Pitch 1: Start on a low angle black rock ramp. Follow bolt line for best rock. Crux for most is dark bulge 4-5 bolts up. Continue into a water groove for 50 feet then step right to first pitch anchor. First pitch can have a little grit early in the season.
Pitch 2: A little tougher and steeper than it looks. As always good foot work prevails. Upper steep crux before large ledge is burly and steep. The belay is on an incredible ledge with great views up, across and down the valley.
Pitch 3: This pitch is pretty technical and probably not for everybody. After the initial couple hard moves you are in a desperate v-slot on perfect stone. Off the belay ledge there are a couple massive blocks that I would avoid stemming to with your right leg. I pounded on these things but still don’t use them!
You can climb the whole climb with a 70m rope and then lower off the P3 anchor to the P2 ledge to belay your partner up. Two raps then get you back to the ground.
2. Inner Sanctum 5.11b ** bolts 35m
The crux is about 25 feet up. After a shallow right dihedral you pull left over the lip. There is now a fixed draw at the clip after the crux as it was pretty desperate if one was pumped. Up high there are a couple tricky moves just before the anchor. This is one of the newest climbs at The Chamber. Likely will get another star once it cleans up.
3. Moonlight Drive 5.11a *** bolts 35m
Welcome to chamber endurance climbing! The start is very thin but well bolted. Stick clip up the first few bolts if you can. There is the obvious steep lay back that goes over the bulge down low. But don’t be fooled there are still several other cruxes to come. This is one of the newest climbs at The Chamber so climb accordingly. Engaging climbing for the grade.
4. Friend of Misery 5.11c/d ** bolts 30m
The middle section of this climb offers some beautiful lime stone climbing of fine quality. Follow the dark faint arête to start which ends at a good rest 5-6 bolts up. Then step right into the money, steep and thin moves lead to pulls on big holds through the overhanging bulge. The anchors are up to the right (where the bullet rock is). I haven’t tried linking this climb into Moonlight Drive. Again, I expect to add a star as this rig cleans up.
5. Behind the Curtain 5.12b *** bolts 35m
Climb left facing detached corner for 20 feet before getting on the main steep wall. Pull a low bouldery crux to moderate steep climbing. When you get to the upper shallow right corner work right on crimpers (crux) and then continue up slightly over hanging climbing to anchors. The pump on this one is legendary.
6. School of Witchcraft 5.11d bolts*** 35m
Climb up to obvious finger crack on dark rock before entering onto the main wall. Pull low boulder problem and then follow huge pockets and holes for 50 feet to upper crux. The upper crux involves left hand insecure side pulls precision feet to a good right hand pocket. Once over the upper lip there are large holds to the anchor. Might feel a little harder to some. (Upper crux can be a little flaky around the fixed draw, to the right, STAY on route). Excellent climb if you excel at the grade.
7. Pixi Mayhem 5.12a**** bolts 35m
There is a cruxy thin crimpy face section around bolt 4 or so. Then climb holes and horizontals into a small alcove with a fixed draw above you. Build your feet as high as you can and bump up to the large horizontal crack. Throw a left hand jam in and stand up using right crimps. Follow steep jugs for another 30 feet to the anchors. Wild and pumpy.
8. Mystic Fortune 5.11b/c****15 bolts 30m
Chamber Classic! Climb easy black slab to light colored vertical rock. A 20 foot vertical section of side pulls and pockets leads to shallow right facing corner. Climb the gently overhanging corner on pumpy jugs. When the corner ends there is a short crux head wall with an unobvious but perfect side pull and crimp finish to glory hold. Insanely good the hole way!
9. Pick You Poison 5.12c *** bolts 30m
The start is shared with Luck of the draw for 3 bolts then break left. Thin face moves lead to overlap with slightly overhanging face in fantastic rock. The middle section is the crux and will require stamina and a practiced sequence for most. Recommend warming up on Luck of the Draw then hanging your draws, but you can pick your own poison.
10. Luck of the Draw 5.11b/c**** bolts 35m
Get your endurance game on for this chamber original warmup. Climb easy dark slab for 20 feet to horizontal dusty break. It spices up from here. Climb several bolts of crimps, pinches and side pulls into giant right facing corner. Follow the corner staying just right of it before trending slightly left on jugs to the anchors. Long and sustained.
11. Intellectual Luminary 5.13a *** bolts 30m
Start on fixed line. Pull up to ledge and then climb plum line in white face to the left. This is the climb about 15 feet right of Luck of the Draw. You can easily pre-draw it by climbing Luck of the Draw and moving right to I.L. anchors. The ivory colored headwall is bullet hard rock and quiet impressive for the Western Slope.
12. Cosmic Conquer 5.12c *** Bolts 35m
Climb/pull yourself up a 15 ft fixed line to the ledge. The first moves off the shelf through the bulge and into the left facing corner are difficult and thin. Establish in the corner then move left along the side pull underling crack and pull onto the face (crux). Fixed draws through this section. There are a few more hard moves that lead to hero jugs and cool holes, slots and pockets to the anchor. Sustained, steep and ultra pumpy.
13. Instrument of Darkness 5.13a/b **** bolts 35m
Climb the first few bolts of Mortal Knowledge and then move left into Instrument of Darkness. Off the horizontal shelf the climb has a few bolts of serious steepness before climbing onto the very long sustained upper face. The crux is just after the steeps in the bullet hard white and smooth face. Can’t describe the crux as anything else but delicate. After the face enjoy a long run of ginormous pocket and holes to an edgy difficult move or two just below the chains. Tie a knot in the end of your 70m rope!
14. Mortal Knowledge 5.12c/d**** bolts 42m
This climb is sick. The first few bolts lead up a moderate slab to a horizontal shelf. Then climb out a mini cave (12b) and onto a solid vertical headwall. The final 10 meters of climbing is the crux on thin, but good holds up gently overhanging rock. This climb is an endurance test piece. You can lower off with an 80m rope due to rope stretch but be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope. If you have a 70 m rope there is a rap anchor a little over a third up the climb.
15. Accidental Magic 5.12a**** 18 bolts 35m
Don’t be fooled this climb overhangs 15 feet and will test your fitness. It’s a great climb to train for endurance on. Start by climbing a 10 foot left facing crack to a steep scoop and crux bulge above. The start has a short green hand line. After pulling the crux bulge follow shallow right facing dihedral for 15 feet to a pink face above. The superb face has a couple thin cruxes with tricky footwork before a steep exit through a pumpy roof feature.
16. Onsight Oracle Pitch 1: 5.12a/b**** 35m 15 bolts Pitch 2: 5.12d*** bolts
This is the line you can see from the parking lot at Main Elk that ends with the huge roof. Pitch one is long and hard and will leave you pumped out of your mind clipping the anchor! Climb a few bolts in the low slab. The terrain around the third bolt is loose but easy. Pull a strenuous bulge around the 5th bolt and then grunt your way up the blank looking bullet face into a long steep right facing corner that’s harder than it looks. At the top of the corner jam yourself into the pod for a rest before tackling one final crux to the first pitch anchor. All moves on this pitch are doable and hard. Stack them one after another and you have yourself a pump fest. Pitch two continues up the groove onto a white face with a two finger pockets. Exit the face through the ginormous roof. Use caution on the rap/lower down so your partner does not end up in space.
17. Sole Splitter P1: 5.13a*** bolts P:2 12a****
Pitch 1: This is the first climb in the amphitheater proper. There is a belay bolt climber’s left of climb. Careful on the chossy starting move. Climb easy blocky steps to overhang where the rock dramatically improves. Set up in underling for powerful crux sequence that involves a desperate move to a two-finger pocket. Another stand up gets you to a jug and superb rock to the anchor
Pitch 2: Climbs gorgeous steep pink and blue lime stone to the top of the crag! A must do pitch. The view from the belay is incredible. Worth the first pitch battle. Linking the two pitches as one mega pitch still needs to be done.
18. Serious Black P1: 5.12b/c*** P2: 5.12b***
Pitch 1: Share the same start as Sole Splitter. After a few bolts break right and climb over hanging headwall with pockets and then through an obvious off width looking crack to easier ground.
Pitch 2: Climb the amazing blue streak! The initial climbing on this pitch is cruzer to a shut down hard pull at the last couple bolts. The exposure on this pitch is outstanding. Both pitches can be linked with a 70m rope!
19. Renegade Sorcerer - Closed Project. 30m
Just to the right of the biggest part of the amphitheater roofs. Climbs up wildly overhanging rock to a right facing corner.
20. Vow of Silence*** 5.13b 25m
Very stout route. One of the hardest at the Chamber so far. Climb the whiteish column about 4 bolts to a bulge. The crux is a very difficult move over the bulge onto the face. Immediately trend left via a dyno and then straight up overhanging gymnastic and heel hooking. There is a final stopper crux a little before the anchor. Fortunately, the fall from here is very soft.
21. Savage Chi 5.12d*** bolts 35m
The first three bolts are very moderate and bring you to a series of overhanging under clings and side pulls. The crux is getting past the first fixed draw about 7 bolts up. The crux move is steep with pockets, sloppers, side pulls and tricky feet. As some would say this climb has “all the food groups.” Keep it together as there is still 60 feet of steep climbing. At the top traverse right to the chains. Be sure to “lift your chi” and then some!
22. Hounds of Hades 5.12b*** 35 m with 40m extension/variation
Climb through a low overhanging hand sized crack which is the lower crux and game stopper for most people. I don’t recommend hand jamming but if you do wear tape gloves unless you want to look like you were flailing in Indian Creek all weekend. Then follow enjoyable lay backing for about 25 feet to a small stance where you move left onto the incredible pink face above. A series of cracks, and insane huge stand ups off of giant holes brings you to the chains. There is a 5m extension if you haven’t had enough.
23. Spell Bound 5.12a**** 35m
One of the best climbs at the crag and maybe the Western Slope. The start isn’t much to look at but step back and take a peek at the pink wall above! There is a fixed draw on the third bolt. The crux is really moving through the third bolt and clipping the forth bolt as your feet disintegrate. Once through the crux move slightly left and then up the unbelievable solid pink face above to the anchor. After the crux the climbing is continuous 5.11. Harder than it looks! There is a 10m extension that is 5.11a and currently dirty.
24. Once Upon a Time **** 5.12a 35m (40m extension)
Just right of Spell Bound. 5-6 bolts up there is a very tricky, steep and thin slab problem in the dark rock. Fortunately, it is followed by some unforgettable climbing up the incredible pink face, which is very similar to Spell Bound but slightly harder. After the pink steep face pull the small roof to the first anchor at 35 m, if you like your climbs to go on forever keep climbing to the 40m anchor. Please lower carefully.
The Next zone down is called The Station. It’s a good take off point for a day of climbing at the Chamber. It gets some of the most sun on the wall and has a handful of great moderate warm ups.
25. Hocus Pocus** 5.11b/c 30m
Battle through the difficult start and you are rewarded with incredible climbing just right of the magnificent arête. Stick clip the first couple bolts. This climb if pretty technical in it’s mid-section with some tricky hard to read moves but the rock is great and when you link it together it’s an outstanding climb!
26. Arc of Totality** 5.10b 25m
Hardest move is on the start. I recommend stick clipping the first 2 bolts. After the first 10 feet the climbing is fun and easy. Follows a massive varied crack system to the left. Best warm up at the crag.
27. TR Line** 5.11a 25m
TR the plumb line directly below the Arc of Totality Anchors. Starts in a right facing corner. Cleaning up pretty well and likely will see some bolts one of these days.
28. Abbey Cadabra** 5.10a 25m 11bolts 25m
Supper fun and supper cruzer. Gets kind of steep about 4 bolts up and then eases off to the anchors. Another good warm up.
29. Dark Arts** 5.10d 20m
Currently the right most climb at the crag. Climbs just right of large dihedral system. There is a conifer tree about 15 feet up on the left. Pretty much stays just right of the corner system on good rock. One of the less steep climbs at the crag but still kinds tricky just before the anchor. Pull the rope wisely so it doesn’t get caught up in the tree. Thanks, K for finishing this one! This was the original jug line to access the top of the crag.
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