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Hogwarts - East Elk

 

Additional Information

 

Route List:

1. Dispelling Illusion

2. Cup of Wrath

3. Hyperemesis

4. Order of the Phoenix

5. Death Eaters

6. Inexhaustible Magic

7. Dark Dimension

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1. Dispelling Illusion - 3 Pitch
This three pitch pleasure will be done soon.



 2. Cup of Wrath - 3 Pitch
This climb is insanely steep and will be done shortly.



 3. Hyperemesis 5.12c/d A0 bolts 3 pitches 100m

 Pitch 1: 13 bolts 5.12b/c – Several fixed draws.
Hyperemesis  starts on a slab for 15 feet passing a small lip just before the third  bolt where the rock gets pretty darn solid and increases in value to  incredibly hard granite like limestone by the top of the pitch. The  first lips has some pockets and open hand holds. The middle involves a  “techy” traverse to the left. After the traverse the route steepens and  is much harder than it looks from the ground. A series of powerful moves  takes you through impeccable drip stone to the first pitch belay.

Pitch 2: A0 (5.13+?) Closed Project.
The  original pitch went a little left of the current line of bolts which  were moved into more featured rock as well as extended it a few bolts  onto the face above the gray shield to eliminate the original hanging  uncomfortable belay.

Pitch 3: 5.12d
This  pitch tops out! The view and hang at the top were too spectacular not to  take pitch 3 all the way up. Many fixed draws on this pitch. You can  rap down from here but its supper intimidating and would be way harder  than just walking up hill and then down the gully at the top of the  crag. Another option is rapping down the anchor above Inexhaustible  Magic which requires two raps and a 70m rope. The top is fresh so make  sure to clip the last bolts so the second doesn’t get hit by small  rocks.

Decent:  You can rap the route which is very over hanging and could be hard. Or  you can walk off to climbers right. There is a rap station at the top of  the crag over Inexhaustible Magic. Two raps will get you to the ground.  70m rope required!


 

4. Order of the Phoenix - Page 58 Western Sloper


5. Death Eaters - Page 58 Western Sloper 



 6. Inexhaustible Magic 5.13a **** bolts 35m  

 Inexhaustible Magic is the climb to the right of Death Eaters. The first 3rd of the climb  will not be that memorable but the upper 2/3rd will be some of the best  rock you have climbed in the area much like the climbs to the left. The  upper portion of this climb goes through an incredible blue streak and  ends in perfect pocketed rock. You can easily walk up and rap in over  the route to pre-draw it. 70m rope is mandatory on this climb!


 7. Dark Dimension 5.12c/d*** bolts 35m 

 Dark Dimension starts  in black rock just above Inexhaustible Magic. Above the black rock is a  difficult move to the left. I highly recommend rapping in over this one  and pre-drawing it with a few shoulder length slings here and there.  Leading ground up without the draws was pretty darn exciting! The final  move to the anchor is insanely hard. Look for and extended anchor in the  near future.




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Hyperemesis