1. Dobby 5.12b/c
Kind of a crag staple. Short and technical. The start is a little tricky to read. Recommend stick clipping up to second bolt.
2. Cosmic Connection 5.12d 30m
Climb the first few bolts of Dobby then traverse right through a lower crux. The steepness eases off before the final head wall. Climb up to large features and tufa. Traverse slightly right and then climb straight up through the upper steep bulge. Pumpy to the chains.
2a. Cosmic Connection Direct – open project.
3. Emotional Letdown 5.12d 30m
Climb the first couple bolts of Guano Pods then make strenuous traverse left. The middle of the climb eases off a bit but not to much. You can shake out in the horizontal break before the final headwall. The final headwall is awesome rock and will make you work for the chains.
3a. Emotional Letdown Direct – Closed Project
The crux is really getting through the first lower lip to the flake then a super technical move right to a side pull followed by a dynamic move to a slick hole type feature.
3b. Emotional Connection 5.13a 30m
Start as for Emotional Letdown and make a wild right to left traverse into the final headwall of Cosmic Connection. Wild.
4. Guano Pods 5.12c
1. Dispelling Illusion
2. Cup of Wrath
4. Order of the Phoenix
5. Death Eaters
6. Inexhaustible Magic
7. Dark Dimension
1. Dispelling Illusion - 3 Pitch
This three pitch pleasure will be done soon.
2. Cup of Wrath - 3 Pitch
This climb is insanely steep and will be done shortly.
3. Hyperemesis 5.12c/d A0 bolts 3 pitches 100m
Pitch 1: 13 bolts 5.12b/c – Several fixed draws.
Hyperemesis starts on a slab for 15 feet passing a small lip just before the third bolt where the rock gets pretty darn solid and increases in value to incredibly hard granite like limestone by the top of the pitch. The first lips has some pockets and open hand holds. The middle involves a “techy” traverse to the left. After the traverse the route steepens and is much harder than it looks from the ground. A series of powerful moves takes you through impeccable drip stone to the first pitch belay.
Pitch 2: A0 (5.13+?) Closed Project.
The original pitch went a little left of the current line of bolts which were moved into more featured rock as well as extended it a few bolts onto the face above the gray shield to eliminate the original hanging uncomfortable belay.
Pitch 3: 5.12d
This pitch tops out! The view and hang at the top were too spectacular not to take pitch 3 all the way up. Many fixed draws on this pitch. You can rap down from here but its supper intimidating and would be way harder than just walking up hill and then down the gully at the top of the crag. Another option is rapping down the anchor above Inexhaustible Magic which requires two raps and a 70m rope. The top is fresh so make sure to clip the last bolts so the second doesn’t get hit by small rocks.
Decent: You can rap the route which is very over hanging and could be hard. Or you can walk off to climbers right. There is a rap station at the top of the crag over Inexhaustible Magic. Two raps will get you to the ground. 70m rope required!
4. Order of the Phoenix - Page 58 Western Sloper
5. Death Eaters - Page 58 Western Sloper
6. Inexhaustible Magic 5.13a **** bolts 35m
Inexhaustible Magic is the climb to the right of Death Eaters. The first 3rd of the climb will not be that memorable but the upper 2/3rd will be some of the best rock you have climbed in the area much like the climbs to the left. The upper portion of this climb goes through an incredible blue streak and ends in perfect pocketed rock. You can easily walk up and rap in over the route to pre-draw it. 70m rope is mandatory on this climb!
7. Dark Dimension 5.12c/d*** bolts 35m
Dark Dimension starts in black rock just above Inexhaustible Magic. Above the black rock is a difficult move to the left. I highly recommend rapping in over this one and pre-drawing it with a few shoulder length slings here and there. Leading ground up without the draws was pretty darn exciting! The final move to the anchor is insanely hard. Look for and extended anchor in the near future.