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The Low Hanging Fruit Wall

 

The  Low Hanging Fruit Wall is an outcrop of some very unique and high  quality climbing for the Crystal River Valley. Many early visitors to  the crag cast it off as unworthy due to the raging icy Crystal River  crossing, trail-less approach and lack of hangs below climbs. Today  adventurous sport climbers will find the approach well worth it and  encounter some of the most beautiful stone on the Western Slope. The  river is still cold but there is a rudimentary trail to the base of the  crag and hardy souls over the last couple years have been making belay  stances.  A dedicated and motivated group of locals has worked  exceptionally hard at improving the approach! Thanks.

Parking:
Recommended  Park at the top of Daniels Hill right at the junction for the turn to  Lizard Lake. Walk down the hill and past Lizard lake and then down  another hill to where the road meets the Crystal river. Cross the river  here.You can drive all the way to the crossing if you want. But the  popularity of the Scofield Pass road has increased to the point that you  might have to deal with passing vehicles in exposed single lane  situations. Also getting your vehicle stuck back there might be pricy.  Another option is to park at the bottom of Daniels Hill just after  Beaver Lake and hitch hike.

Approach times:

Times may vary  on how long you futz around crossing the river. I wear my shorts and  water shoes there so I can just walk across the river without stopping  and then keep them on for the walk up the hill to the climbing.
-From where the road meets the crossing: 15-20 minutes.
-From the top of Daniels Hill: 30 minutes.
-From the Bottom of Daniels Hill: 50 minutes.

After  crossing the river you still walk up hill about 100 vertical feet to a  very well-traveled game trail. Take a right and follow the gently  climbing game trail to the right way farther then you would expect. You  will get to a cairn after about 10 minutes. You will then switch back to  the left and then up a steep slope with a black fixed line. Keep  traversing left and you will encounter a second horizontal hand line.  This will bring you to the right side of the wall. Walk along the base  of the wall to the climbing. Enjoy.

 

Word  of Caution: This area has received little traffic and gets a lot of run  off in the spring. Be prepared to brush key holds and pull on “maypops”  with caution.  As always wear a helmet to climb and belay!  You will  need a 70m rope for most climbs, tie a knot in the end! Long draws are  nice to reduce drag. Or reach back and unclip the last draw at key  spots.

Route below without descriptions can be found in the Western Sloper.

1. Contact High 5.11b**

2. Donde Estas Matador 5.11a**

3. Bombs Over Badger 5.13b ** 35m

 If  you climb to the mid anchor it is 11a. Continue on for the full  experience. The upper section is insanely hard but an incredible alpine  pull hard feast. Don't underestimate how hard it is to clip the anchor.

4. Yoga with Tina 5.12a ***
So good! A little run out in the mid section.

5. Cardio Monster 5.12a **
This  is a great climb. The LHFW gets a lot of run off in the spring from the  snow fields above. Careful pulling on the upper flakes on this one.

6. Hoptimize 5.12c/d**** 35m 21 bolts
This  is an incredible and hard 35m route. The initial part of the climb  involves a very steep V2 boulder problem at the third and forth bolt.  Then climb the incredible vertical orange streak. When about level with  the Secret Stash anchors to the right you need to pull over a tricky  overhang crux. The climbing from here to the chains is no gimme with  several more challenging moves. This climb is a beast!

Recommended:  You can skip the first boulder problem by climbing the first three  bolts of cardio monster and then stepping right. Bring some long draws  to reduce drag. If you do the direct start rech back and unclip or you  will have heinous drag.

6a. Mix and Mash 5.10c ** 25m
Starts  on one of the original routes to the zone Cardio Monster for a few  bolts then climbs the mid section of Hoptimize through the orange streak  and then steps right to the Secret Stash anchor.

7. Secret Stash 5.10b*** 25m 9 bolts
Climb  the first three bolts of Chocolate Chipmunk and then move left onto  Secret Stash. Follow the bolt line carefully and you will be rewarded  with superb rock. Good warm up.

8. Chocolate Chipmunk 10a**

9. Pink Panther  10d - fun and challenging climb if you stay on route with some suspect  rock down low. I often warm up on Chocolate Chipmunk and then top rope  Pink Panther since the rope hangs right over it.

The Next Two Climbs are to the right of Pink Panther.

10. Tricky Business**** 5.12a 35m
Climb  2 bolts onto large ledge and then onto the upper wall. After the first  three bolts this climb is glorious. The crux is ¾ of the way up in the  bullet blue face that appears totally featureless from below. There is  just enough there to make it go! That being said you will have to fight  the barn door like it is blowing in a hurricane. Love it. Well bolted  and clean falls. After the crux pull the easy roof to the anchor.

11. Path of Totality**** 5.12a 37m
A  low boulder move into the crack on the left leads to the large ledge  after 3 bolts. Move onto the upper face with huge edges into the bullet  blue limestone crux just before the shallow dihedral. The crux will  probably leave you scratching your head on the first lead attempt but is  not that bad. Continue up the incredible dihedral and then onto the  slightly overhanging headwall at the top. Another tricky move will lead  to the anchors to the left. Watch your rope ends. You can double rap off  of Chocolate Chipmunk. Fair warning the last bolt to the anchor  involves some adult climbing but is only 5.9ish. To the right are some  flakes above Ant Proof Case that I am sure no one would be silly enough  to climb onto.

12. Ant Proof Case 5.11c***
This  climb is a great 5.11 test piece. Climb through the crux and then a  little to make the clip. Get ready to log some air time. Overall a very  steep climb.

13. Blue Anteater 5.11b***
Very technical climbing. For those seeking 5.11s due Blue Anteater then Ant Proof case for the all time outing.