The Low Hanging Fruit Wall is an outcrop of high-quality climbing for the area. Early visitors to the crag deemed it unworthy due to the cold river crossing, trail-less approach and lack of hangs below climbs. Today adventurous sport climbers will find the approach well worth it and encounter some unique stone. The river is still cold but there is a rudimentary trail to the base of the crag and belay stances below many of the climbs.
Parking and Approach:
Many options exist. If the spots are vacant park at the top of Daniels Hill right at the junction for the turn to Lizard Lake. Walk down the hill and past Lizard lake and then down another hill to where the road meets the Crystal river. Cross the river here. You can drive all the way to the crossing if you want. But the popularity of the Scofield Pass road has increased to the point that you might have to deal with passing vehicles in exposed single lane situations.
After crossing the river, walk up hill about 100 vertical feet to a very well-traveled game trail. Take a right and follow the gently climbing game trail. Stay on this traverse longer then you would expect. You will get to a cairn after about 10 minutes. Switch back to the left and then up a steep slope with a black fixed line to the left and shallow switchbacks on the right. At the top of the fixed line climb up about 50 vertical feet then traverse on a faint trail left. At and exposed outcrop just before the crag you will encounter a fixed hand line. This will bring you to the right side of the wall. Walk along the base of the wall to the climbing. Enjoy.
Approach times:
Times may vary on how long you futz around crossing the river. I wear my shorts and water shoes there so I can just walk across the river without stopping.
From where the road meets the crossing: 15-20 minutes
From the top of Daniels Hill: 30 minutes
From the Bottom of Daniels Hill: 60 minutes
Word of Caution: This area receives little traffic and gets a lot of run off in the spring. Be prepared to brush key holds and pull on “maypops” with caution. As always wear a helmet to climb and belay! You will need a 70m rope for most climbs, tie a knot in the end! Long draws are nice to reduce drag.
Routes
1. Contact High 5.11 **
Very exfoliating on the fingers.
2. Donde Estas Matador 5.11 **
A little less crimpy then Contact High
3. Bombs Over Badger 5.13b ** 35m
Mid anchor goes at 11a. Continue on for the full experience. The upper section is insanely hard. The midsection dihedral can get a lot of run off and be littered with little rocks and dirt. Don't underestimate how hard it is to clip the anchor.
4. Yoga with Tina 5.12a **** 35m
So good! A little run out in the mid-section. Feels a little more like a 5.12b effort if you link all the moves.
5. Cardio Monster 5.12a ** 35m
Very good climbing. Needs a serious re-trundle. Careful on anything hallow. Likely will be a little harder once recleaned.
6. Hoptimize 5.12c*** 35m 21 bolts
Hard! Initial part of the climb involves a very steep V2 boulder problem at the third bolt. Then climb moderate vertical orange streak. When about level with the Secret Stash anchors you enter the crux through the tricky steep scoop with hard insecure stemming. Climbing from the stance after the crux to the chains will get your attention. This climb is a beast!
Recommended: You can skip the first boulder problem by climbing the first three bolts of cardio monster and then stepping right. Bring some long draws to reduce drag. If you do the direct start reach back and unclip or you will have heinous drag.
6a. Mix and Mash 5.10c ** 25m
Starts on Cardio Monster for a few bolts then climbs the mid section of Hoptimize through the orange streak and then steps right to the Secret Stash anchor.
7. Secret Stash 5.10b*** 25m 9 bolts
Climb the first three bolts of Chocolate Chipmunk and then move left onto Secret Stash. Follow the bolt line carefully and you will be rewarded with superb rock. Good warm up.
8. Chocolate Chipmunk 10a* 25m
Good warm up. Careful what you pull on. The crux is the first couple bolts getting into the corner.
9. Pink Panther 10d * 25m
Fun and challenging climb if you stay on route with some suspect rock down low. Best topped roped after climbing CC as a warm up. It’s hard for leaders to resist the temptation to pull on iffy rock to the right.
10. Tricky Business*** 5.12a 35m
Climb 2 bolts onto large ledge and then onto the upper wall. Getting onto upper wall is loose but easy. The crux is ¾ of the way up on the bullet blue face that appears totally featureless from below. There is just enough there to make it go reasonably. Fight the barn door. There is now a mid-anchor just after the blue slab if you don’t want to go all the way to the top.
11. Path of Totality*** 5.11c 35m
A low boulder move into the crack on the left leads to the large ledge after 3 bolts. Move onto the upper face with huge edges into the solid blue stone (crux) just before the shallow dihedral. Continue up the dihedral and then onto the slightly overhanging headwall at the top which is thinner and harder then it looks.
12. Ant Proof Case 5.11d *** 5.11d
Great 5.11 test piece. Steep and sustained. After right side pulls climb onto dark bulge. Once you pull the crux you need to climb a little more to the clip. Get ready for airtime if you blow it. Climbing around left knocks the grade down.
13. Blue Anteater 5.11b ***
Very technical climbing. Crux is thin but short lived.
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