There are lots of other routes in this zone.
1. Namaste Corner 5.8 bolts
Take a deep breath and enjoy this rare moderate climb. Intended for those who aren’t 5.10 crushers and want something a little more mellow. Originally climbed on gear. Now bolted for your climbing pleasure.
2. Crackle *** 5.12a bolts
Crackle is 5.11b up to the obvious ledge where there is an intermediate anchor if you want to skip the upper crux. The crux is on a bulge off the ledge so communicate well with your belayer. The upper crux is a little heady and plenty hard.
Stick clip the second bolt to start.
3. Invisible Path ** 5.12a bolts
Just right of the arête and left of the obvious corner. Lower big moves turn into technical crimping. Precision foot work required. Well bolted to work it. You’ll need a sequence on this one.
4. Ripple Effect ** 5.12d bolts
Right of Invisible Path. Start on a low angle easy slab corner that is prone to collecting sand to the first bolt. Gets vertical from here. It’s about 11a to the first set of lower chains. From here the climb heads left through the massive roof. Pulling over the lip of the roof is the core intensive crux. Traversing left after the crux is not all that bad but expect some rope drag.
Due to rope drag and the overhanging nature cleaning draws off the climb requires a little extra work. I clean the top as I lower then reclimb the lower section to the intermediate anchor to clean the initial corner. I would give it more starts if it wasn’t for the rope drag.
5. Algorithm *** 5.12b (11b/c to first anchor) bolts
There is a hard sequence off the ground so stick clip and pre draw the first few bolts. Mid climb is a little slabby. After the slab transition into the obvious steep crack feature to first anchor. For the extension be sure to clip anchor ring with a draw, and extend the clip under the roof or you will have nasty drag to the upper anchors. The crux is pulling through the roof and standing up over the lip.
6. Premonition **** 5.13a 20 bolts
Really no shut down move on this monster of a climb. Just hard, thoughtful climbing the hole way. Stay true to bolt line for full value. There is always one more crux to come on this one right until the chains. Fair warning the moves off the ground are quite hard, sorry. Stick clip or pre draw the lower part of Premonition by climbing the lower section of Algorithm first.
6a. Foresight 5.12b/c
Climb the first 12 bolts of premonition and then bail left to the lower Algorithm anchors.
7. Thunder Mug ** 5.13a bolts 35m
Starts just left of the obvious giant chock stone and rat dung filled dihedral. The first 3-4 bolts are the crux so make sure you are ready for battle right off the ground. The rest of the route is 5.11+ and way better and steeper than it looks. There is a lower anchor at the 9thbolt if you don’t want to cross the huge dihedral. If you can stomach crossing through the Thunder Mug, the upper headwall is pretty exciting.
Stick clip the second bolt and have the next couple pre-drawed. It’s possible to do the entire lower section of the climb without ever using or stepping into the unpleasant looking corner on the right.
Link ups: Escondido Tide: To many bolts to count. Start up the first 4 bolts of Algorithm then move left through Premonition and into Thunder Mug at the 7-8th bolt. Transitions between climbs can be sandy. Demolition: Another link up is called Demolition and starts on the lower section of Thunder Mug and ends on Premonition.
Rock Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport and unfortunately accidents happen even when everything is done right. When climbing outside it is possible for rocks, even on well-climbed routes, to break without warning. It is the responsibility of every climber to climb in a safe manner and take responsibility for themselves and their well-being.
Climbers climb at their own risk and must assume all inherent risks of rock climbing including but not limited to approach danger, equipment malfunction, hardware failure, rock failure and all other risks.
Climbers are independently responsible for the decisions they make when climbing and ultimately responsible for their own safety. Belayers and climbers should wear helmets at all times without exception. Rock climbing is a high risk activity and you should always climb within your ability after carefully judging the routes’ safety.
The climber ultimately choices to climb any given route and expressly and voluntarily assumes the risks of serious physical injury, disability and/or death whether or not caused by the neglect of themselves or fault of others.